Hi!
I have only ever seen people successfully processing their C-22 in B&W chemicals before, for those who like to do it at home that is. So that, is one option.
Or you could get in contact with the people at Process C-22, a UK based film processing lab that still does everything from Kodachrome (yes!!) to Verichrome Pan. You might want to send them an email first to see if they have developed Photo Porst film before. Alternatively, if you are based in the US, you could check with Rapid Photo as they also provide C-22 processing.
A great site with helpful resources for getting old expired film processed is Film Rescue. Their FAQ is filled with useful tips to help you find your way through the questions you may have about your film. Though I think Photo Porst is probably among the rarest breed of vintage film, I am sure one of the pros from the sites above will be able to point you in the right direction!
Good luck! And do show us your photos when you get them developed!!
-eleanorrigby236
Hey, I think you can find tons of those vintage straps on Etsy!
Hi, I know exactly what your problem is and it’s definitely not a battery problem. Most probably the mirror is sticky and you need to get it lubed. Just try sending your camera to a person who knows how to service an SLR ie get it CLA-ed. If you’re in Malaysia I can point you to some camera experts who could do it for you. Otherwise, you could always check on eBay for those who could do CLA services for the OM10 (I know there are tons of them in the US.)
Alternatively, what I used to do on my stuck Ricoh KR-10 was to unscrew the lens and give the mirror a gentle tap (yup!) but you’ll definitely get some light leaks and expose some frames in the process.
Best of luck!
-delusiana
We are just as glad that you found us!! ;) I hope our experiments and posts here will help you through your process of discovering the wonders of shooting on film.
As for your question, you can shoot it on ANY film camera available. If you still do not own a film cam, try looking for a second hand one on eBay or purchase one of the easily available toy cameras like the Holga 135 or the Diana Mini. You can browse through our website by camera type by clicking on this link to see all the different results you can get with the combination of various films on various cams. Just make sure to look at 35mm cameras. Here you can also look at past entries posted with Kodak Color Plus sample shots.
Additionally, do visit our FAQ page where we answer all sorts of questions from our readers on evertyhing film!! Well, to the extent of everything we know at least. Here are some questions answered that may aid you in your decision on which camera to shoot with.
- What camera to use for street photography?
- Would you suggest “this” camera for a beginner?
- What is a good 35mm film to use?
- Where to look for 35mm cameras?
All the best and remember, always have fun!!
-eleanorriby236
Hi, it’s great that you shoot & develop your own B&W films, I’d love to have a darkroom of my own too!
Anyway, I’ve searched on some forums and found out a website that does repair services for old Agfa cameras and I’m pretty sure he can help you with your Silette. Best thing is, he’s based in the US so that’s a plus. Do drop him an email and see what he can do to help you.
Good luck!
-delusiana
Hey, so so sorry for the super late reply!
Of course, scanners make all the difference in terms of picture quality and color, it depends on the machine settings. Of course, a good scanner will be able to reproduce the exact tones as the film intended but as I said, it’s all subjective.
The type of development chemicals used at a particular lab will also affect the outcome of the images. For example my local lab is a Fuji lab and I found that my Kodak color negatives (eg Ektar 100) when developed in that particular lab will yield a somewhat bluish-greenish tinge.
I hope this answers your question :)
-delusiana
Yes, that would work as long as you are still able to close the back of your camera ;) Just make sure the emulsion side is now facing outwards when you load the film into your camera.
WHICH SIDE IS THE EMULSION SIDE?
That would be the dull side of your film, the shiny side (or the backing) should now be the side facing into your camera, and the side that will be exposed first with each shutter click. Perhaps my sample image at the end of this post could help.
Don’t forget to share your results with us!!!
When your exposure counter shows that you have reached the last frame, either 24 or 36 depending on the film you used, then your film is ready to unload. That is IF you remembered to set your exposure counter to ‘0’ when loading your film. If not, no fret, when the advance wheel will go no further even after depressing the shutter release, that is a sure sign of when you have come to the end of your roll.
I hope this helps. ;)
-eleanorrigby236
Hi,
Instead of giving you a step-by-step, I am going to point you to a site that has a compilation of useful manuals for the Smena 8M. The most straight-forward manual has to be the updated one released by Lomography.com (LSI), but you might be interested to check out the original manual from way back when you were not even born, just for fun ;)
All you need to know about your Smena!
http://www.kataan.org/smena
Have fun!
-eleanorrigby236
Hi there. Are you talking about the skin I used for the Holga?
Well, you can get skins for all sorts of cams & gadgets at http://www.skinslove.com. They come in various patterns and the last time I checked, they ship for free to anywhere in the world! Oh, and if you’re feeling a little bit creative you can also send your design(s) and they will print them for you! Neat huh?
-delusiana
-If you have any other alternative ways your like to process, develop, or take shots, please tell
-Favorite Films type?
-Favorite Camera? — Asked by seawhyines
Hi! For what we like you should check out our About Us page and check out the cameras we shoot with here. For tips and film review just start browsing our blog or use our helpful Film Index and Camera Index to choose what you wish to learn more about. Have fun perusing our blog!!
-CGSF
Hi, I think the Mamiya 500TL is an awesome camera and the Mamiya Sekor lenses are tack sharp! The lightmeter differs from your conventional Nikon Fs or Canon FDs but in my opinion it’s really to use, and of course you can use it as your first SLR. The only drawback of the 500TL is that the shutter speed only goes upto 1/500s, so for me since I’m from Malaysia and it’s always sunny all year round, it can be a bit of a hassle, since you’ll need a faster shutter speed. In that case, a 1000TL will do better as the speed goes upto 1/1000s.
However, I’ve learned that you can always compensate with the ISO settings, and with the spot metering system, it’s really easy.
You can read more about the Mamiya TL series at the following links.
http://herron.50megs.com/DTL.htm
http://www.butkus.org/chinon/mamiya/mamiya_tl/mamiya_tl.htm
If you ask me, I’m really partial to my Mamiya 500TL and I use it more often than my other SLRs as I really love the spot metering system. Hope this helps and have fun shooting!
-delusiana
Hi!
What is a good street photography camera? Now that is a question! It really depends on your style of shooting on the street.
If you are more of an “assault rifle” type photographer, the type who avoids direct contact with your subject and would prefer to just capture a shot from a comfortable range away from the consciousness of your subject (this does not mean that you are far in distance, but just subtle in your photo-taking), in fast and swift motions while traversing your plain, then a point-and-shoot would suit you best.
Why a point-and-shoot? Simply because you do not need to worry about your focus, at most you simply choose from 3 predetermined focal planes like on a LC-A or an Olympus Trip. This way you can snap photos from waist level without provoking your subject by pointing the camera into their faces, but still be able to capture that candid shot in the exact moment it happens.
If you are a “sniper” type photographer, who likes to aim with precision, taking time with your composition and prefer to let the world around you move while you are at a standstill, than a light-weight SLR like the Canon AE-1 or the Nikon FE/FM series with a prime lens would work best. With a SLR, you will need to make sure your focus is spot-on, but it will work well if your preset your focus and wait in place for your target to enter the frame.
Being that I don’t own my personal film scanner (yet!) I cannot spare you any comments on that matter, but, if and when I decide to buy one, this article by Ken Rockwell would be the one I would dig into to see which scanner would fit my budget and needs.
As to how my workflow goes, it’s easy. Shoot (take notes on lighting conditions and camera settings!!)—-> Process —-> Scan negatives/slides to disk —-> Pick my good shots —-> Work on contrast/tone corrections in Lightroom 3 (if necessary) —-> Publish online! Lastly, I’d go back and look at all my bad shots to see what went wrong. And then beat the crap out of myself for failing and wasting my film… … ;) No, I just smile and look forward to my next attempt!!
-eleanorrigby236
I also had to disassemble the lens to clean it and can tell you flipping the lens on a Hawkeye is a breeze. — Asked by eyelvl
Hey man, I guess I didn’t research enough on the BHF to know that it doesn’t need respooling. Although I do know that flipping the lens looks so much easier on it since all you need to do is to unscrew the lens out.
Thanks so much for sharing!
-delusiana
Not really. Simply because one of the most important things about photography is composition, or in the words of the great Ansel Adams, “visualization.” Toy cameras like the Diana, Supersampler, 360 Spinner and the Fisheye do not have accurately represented viewfinders. This means that things may appear closer or farther away in the viewfinder than it actually is making it impossible to compose your shots, except through the art of guessing! I have never used the Lomo Fisheye camera before but I have read that the lens is so wide that part of it is covering the viewfinder, making the viewfinder very much redundant. But that is what Lomography.com promotes, random shooting. One of their Golden Rules read, “Don’t Think, Just Shoot.” If that fits your shooting style and idea right now, than perhaps the Lomo Fisheye is a good starting point for you.
However, in terms of studying lighting and your film, this camera would work, as you could compare your shots to the time the shot was made, to learn how sensitive the film you are using is and how competent your camera is under a particular light situation.
I would always suggest a real SLR for any beginner. You can find an abundance of these cameras on eBay for much cheaper than any of the toycams available today. And those are real cameras that will really teach you all you need to know about photography. Of course you would have to learn up a bit on how to operate them as they are not point-and-shoot cameras but once you get the hang of it, you can branch out to almost any format.
In conclusion, I can say that operating a toy camera is actually more difficult than operating an SLR, in terms of capturing a good and decent photo. There is a higher chance that you will waste roll after roll on a toycam due to lack of understanding on the basics of photography. I say go for an SLR that comes with a full-program auto-exposure or semi-auto exposure capabilities, so you don’t have to worry too much about perfecting your exposures manually in the beginning.
I hope this helps! Whichever path you take, all the best and never give up!!
-eleanorrigby236
