Lomography X-Pro Chrome on Canon AE-1 (Canon FD 50mm 1.4)

I had recently coughed out a rather large amount of my allowance to repair the film camera that my dad had bought 28 years ago from a second hand shop. The Canon AE-1. My dad used to tell me stories about how he brought his camera every where he went and the places he used to go. After he handed the AE-1 down to me at the beginning of this year, I wanted to make my own memories. It took me a while to save up for the money, but when I finally got it repaired, I’ve never been able to say no to this sexy shutter click and sly, effortless focus ring since. The f1.4 aperture was breathtaking! Using this camera makes it impossible to resist taking portrait shots. This set of photographs were from the second time I’ve shot on the AE-1 with a roll of slide film.

My friends and I had a day off on school one Monday, so we decided to spend our time wisely by cycling and exploring a small island near Singapore called Pulau Ubin. Pulau Ubin is the complete opposite of fast-paced Singapore, with only about a hundred villagers live there today. It is one of the last rural areas to be found in Singapore, with an abundance of natural flora and fauna. From the eyes of an urbanite like myself, Pulau Ubin is such an amazing place to be, with cheap, yummy, seafood and great, au naturale, sights that you won’t find in Singapore. From Changi Point Ferry Terminal, it’s a one-way boat ride for only $2.50. Renting a bike for the entire day costs only $10, or $8, if you know how to speak dialect and get a good bargain. Also, Pulau Ubin is pretty famous for the Chek Jawa wetlands, which is among the last few places left with a natural rocky shore. In December 2001, the government called off reclamation plans of the Chek Jawa area after a biodiversity survey conducted by conservationist volunteers. If you’re lucky, and the tide is low, you can walk along the broad walk and see lots of sea life! (We weren’t very lucky that day, unfortunately)

If you have some extra time, take your family or friends along and have a day trip to Pulau Ubin! And don’t forget to bring along your film camera. I loved how this set of photographs came out and I love shooting with slide film on the Canon AE-1.

-Ariel from PeanutShutterJelly

Beier Beirette loves Italy

Lomography Xpro Chrome 100 on Beier Beirette


You gotta love the many photographic relics of the past. Here’s an interesting photo set by our reader hailing all  the way from Italy,Elisa Bastianello aka tagliatelelatesta on Flickr using the Beier Beirette. Here’s what she had to say:

This camera had a great story, my boyfriend chanced upon it in an old drawer and  after some digging, we found out that it belonged to my grandmother-in-law’s late uncle. He was a Catholic priest and bought the Beirette maybe in the 70s or 80s.

I shot these photos in January when me and my boyfriend took a walk at the World War 1 territories somewhere near the north of Italy. We had to cross the wild woods to reach the Tagliamento river and once there, I told him to jump up and down…and he did! It was so funny, lol.

For more info on the Beirette check out this link here.

Well, you know the drill…don’t forget to visit Elisa’s Flickr stream and say hi!

Develop your own color film!

Lomo Xpro Chrome 100 on Diana Miniimage


Fuji CN 200 (Müller Foto) on Superheadz Ultra Wide Slim



Kodak Elitechrome 100 on Superheadz Ultra Wide Slim



Tired of spending so much dough on color processing at the lab? Like the pictures you see above? Well, today Max Zulauf of has a special treat for you guys: DIY Processing of C-41 Films!

Here’s what you’ll need:

  • a film-developer tank (a lot of people trust on Jobo Tanks, I got an AP because they are cheaper)
  • scissors
  • a trash bag 
  • the film you will want to process
  • measuring tools
  • a funnel
  • Tetanal C41 Rapid Kit (they come in liquid and powder form, for 1 or 5 litres of working solution. I guess the liquid is easier to work with but I don’t know since I’ve never used the powder)
  • chemistry bottles (I have plastic ones but I‘d rather go for 500ml glass bottles because they are heavier)
  • thermometer
  • an aquarium heater
  • a timer (I use my cell, every cell has a timer)
  • a water tank where you can fit the three bottles and the development tank

Ok, first of all, you need to know that C41 is a normed process, this means that all films whatever ASA they are, take the same amount of time to develop. This helps if you want to process 2 films at one go and they have different speeds. There are different ways to process C41, the standard is on 38°C, but this is too hot for me and pretty fast, there is the 45°C express process and the 30°C slower process. I will show you the last method, because the temperature is easier to control and isn’t too fast.

Secondly, the chemicals will weaken pretty fast, this means the more film processed in this solution, the longer it’ll take to process subsequent films. But don‘t worry, each Tetenal pack has a manual in it with a nice chart and processing times.

Thirdly, try to avoid useless air contact with your chemicals. They will oxidize and turn bad faster if you leave bottles open and so on. You can slow the process down if you get yourself a Tetenal Protectan Spray, it adds a film of gas (heavier than air, lighter than water) on top of your chemicals without affecting its processing ability.

Mixing The Chemicals & Getting The Right Temperature:

Mix your chemicals. I use 500ml working solution, this means I can keep the 1 liter kit for twice as long. Mix them according to the manual in the package and pour each part (CD for Color Developer, BX for Bleach/Fix and Stab for Stabiliser) into one bottle, close it and label it accordingly. Put them into the water tank. Also put the thermometer and aquarium heater into it and fill the tank with warm water.


It is crucial that you keep control over the water‘s temperature, because there is basically no tolerance in temperature for the process.This will now have to wait a little while, until it all is on 30°C. After a few go’s you’ll know how warm it has to be and you’ll be able to get almost the exact temperature needed. You can speed up this process by adding hot or cold water. On my part, I like to naturally heat up the water using a heater.

Load Film In The Developing Tank:

Take the scissors, film and tank, put them into the trash bag and the trash bag under your blanket. I only use the trash bag because I can trust that it’s dust-free. You do not need it but better be safe than sorry. As you know in this process, no light should get to the film. I won‘t explain the rest, since there are tons of tutorials on this out there. After you’ve loaded the film, put the tank into the waterbath as well.
(Alternatively you can just use a darkroom bag :) )

We’ll skip the part where you wait to get the right temperature. This can vary between minutes and an hour, depending on the initial water temperature.

Make sure that you have the manual with you so can be certain of the exact times need for each step.

Start developing!

First off, pour the CD into your tank. The time starts when you start pouring it.

Close the tank and put the funnel in the bottle. Put the tank back into the waterbath and just move it around there gently. You can rotate it a bit as well. Do this the entire time. This will first help you use all the chemicals, not only the parts next to your film, but it will also help the water in the tank to flow around and keep the same temperature. Because your heater is of no use if you only heat up the still water around the heater and the rest cools off. 

About 10 Seconds before the time runs out, pour the CD back into its bottle and store it for later use.
Then pour in the BX and just do the same thing like before. When you put the BX back into it‘s bottle, you‘ll need warm, running water.
Rinse the film for about 6 minutes. I normally proceed this way.

Fill the tank, invert it 10 times, pour out the water and repeat.
I normally do this 12 times, since it takes about 30 seconds each. After this it is already STAB time! No! No daggers, no knives. Sorry for that lame pun!

Put the tank on a steady surface and pour in the STAB. Just leave it like this for about a minute.
Since STAB foams so much, I never move it because it’ll exaggerate the foaming. After a minute pour in the STAB and rinse the film again.
Now it’s safe to open & check the tank.

Hold Your Breath & Open The Tank!


I normally add a few drops of wetting agent, but this is up to you. The booklet in the Tetanal kit says nothing about a final rinse and most people will just hang the film to dry with the STAB foam still on it.

Now open up the reel, take off the film and hang to dry with a clothes peg. I normally hang two more at the bottom end to straighten the film.

Wash your tank & other equipments throughly as you do not want any calcium residues (due to hard water) on them, this can affect your results the next time round. If you want, you can blow-dry your negatives or just leave them there for about 2 hours. 

You can then cut the negs, put them in sleeves and press them for a few hours (for best results) but you can also just go ahead and scan them.


Edit: DON’T FORGET TO SAY THANKS TO MAX! You can say hi to him by visiting his tumblr or visit his flickr

Cross processing is not for all I guess…

Lomography Xpro Chrome 100 on Nikon EM



So it has been black and white for a while now, for me that is - and I’m back to color mode. Went for an outing with the girls a few weeks back and since the subjects were birds & butterflies, I didn’t want to miss out any detail by not shooting in color.

Delusiana bought a box of the Lomography Xpro Chrome 100 so myself + eleanorrigby236 took a roll each for our nature shoot, anticipating the bright colors of our airborne friends.

I stayed at aperture of 5.6, and although it was a bright sunny day, the shadowy foliage of the aviary contributed to an optimal exposure (according to the girls’ newly acquired Sekonics!) but after scanning, the images were washed up with contrasting colors ,the contour of objects/subjects were almost gone, to my utter and complete dismay!

For example the hibiscus look like red-dyed mass of crumpled tissue papers and the white pelican or stork appeared as if it had fur instead of feathers!

I’m not really digging the xpro effects of this set; I think the colors were way too blinding and I especially hate the blown up skies. I guess this film is not suitable for shoots under extreme light, even more so when you’re shooting with an SLR since there wouldn’t be any vignetting to cover up your flaws. 

I guess in my next outing if I’m to shoot with this film again, I’ll probably push the exposure to a higher ISO or use B&W/color negatives instead.

-yovie eswark

Walking through colors in Wien

Lomography X-Pro Chrome on LOMO LC-W







I was in Vienna a few months back and there was a funfair close to my hotel. I decided to head out for some ice-cream on the hot summer day. The moment I stepped out of the hotel lobby, I was overwhelmed by the the whirling colors that encompassed me.  I decided to randomly snap doubles as I took a stroll through the park. For once I was merrily snapping away without much thought hoping to capture the crazy movement and sky-rocketing emotions brimming from every single person, ride, and building abound!

Summer was just too short this year.


Film Soup=Film Destruction! Lomography Xpro Chrome 100

Olympus Trip 35

So here it is, my version of Kristian J’s Film Soup analogue experiment! I was really skeptical whether anything will come out of this strip, even considered to buy my own C-41 chemicals to cross process it myself. Luckily our local photo lab said it could be done and yay, here are the results!

Unlike Kristian J’s original recipe which called for boiling water, detergent & silica gel and let the film soak for 1-2 days; mine consisted of:

1. Boiling water

2. 1 cup of detergent, 1/2 cup of softener, 1/2 spoon bleach crystals, 2 small packets of silica gel and 1000mg of Vitamin C

3. Add the mix to the boiling water & dump the film roll in it

Since my mixture seemed way too strong, I only let it soak overnight (12hours) and dried the roll with a hair dryer in a black garbage bag.

Once dried I popped it in my Oly Trip 35 and started shooting like a madwoman.

Neat? :D


Lomography X-pro Chrome

Lomo LC-W






I have been shooting doubles on the LC-W a lot now and I have not gotten good results until this roll of film. That first double exposure shot was taken aboard a ferry en route to Sweden. I miraculously got the frothing waves to end just right where it should on the first exposure of the emergency escape boat, making it look like the boat was actually floating in the sea. Pretty cool.

I also quite like that shot I got of the empty basketball court. I wouldn’t go as far as to call it a full-scale multi-click attempt as it was merely 5 clicks, but I must say it only worked because the hall was very dimly lit, or I would have blown the photo out overexposing it. 

The rest of the roll was shot at a funfair, dutifully double exposed, and they turned out fine, thanks to the glorious colors swirling around up in the air to begin with. Those will come in my next post!


Lomography Xpro Chrome 100ISO

All shots were taken indoors and at night. Amazing what the LC-A can do huh? I’m still having some difficuties with close up shots, especially on judging the actual distance. Gotta practice more then.


LOMO LC-A, Russian Minitar 1 32mm/f2.8, Colorsplash Flash







Lomography X-pro Chrome

Gave this new X-Pro film from Lomography a try and like all their other films, it produced very crisp smooth tones in all photos, and shoots well in all light conditions. I have a few rolls of the older Lomography X-Pro film and will try it out to compare with the new Chrome version one of these days.  


Sprocket Rocket

*above: double exposure of a mangrove area, got too much sky during the flip, but I think it came out pretty cool.